JOHN SZABO MS
Domaine Frédéric Brouca / March 22nd 2015
A happy new addition to the roster of producers in this excellent corner of France.
2013 is the inaugural vintage for Fred and his wife Elaine of Domaine Frédéric Brouca, who purchased 25 acres of 30+ year old, certified organic vines in the schists of the Faugères AOC in 2012. The winegrowing philosophy is simple: minimal inputs in both vineyard and winery, early harvest, wild ferments and careful handling to minimize SO2 additions, and bottling unfined and unfiltered.
Champs Pentus, AOC Faugères
The "Champs Pentus" ("steep fields") bottling of Faugères AOC is about equal part syrah, grenache and carigan, aged ten months in old casks. It's very much in the emerging Brouca house style, which is to say pure and fresh, deeply fruity and savory, with a lovely wild violet and resinous herbal touch that draws you in. The palate is fresh and supremely well balanced, full of succulent acids and juicy fruit, with the wild earthly edge of old wine carginan taking the lead. I love the authentic, slightly savage and wild side of the wine, which gives the impression you're drinking pure, unadulterated fermented grapes from the Mediterranean without any technical deviations. Great stuff. 13,5% Alc/Vol. - SRP $20 (John Szabo MS = 90 points).
Samsó Seulle, Vin de France
This is a terrific wine from 40 years old, head trained cinsault vines, fermented with a high proportion of whole clusters, lendind floral and spicy character and firm freshness that reverberates through the wine from start to finish. It's clean and fruity, and for a first vintage, shows a very confident and steady hand, and no shortage of resinous-herbal, mediterranean character. The tannins are tight but fine, and the depth of flavour belies the grape's reputation as light, rosé suitable material. Really terrific wine for the money, which gains in pleasure with air in the glass. 13% Alc./Vol. - SRP $25 (John Szabo MS = 90 points).
Clos Sauveplane, Faugères
Clos Sauveplane is the top cuvée of the estate, a deep dark, savage and garrigue-scented blend of syrah and mourvèdre with breathtaking aromatics like wild violets and resinous herbs - thyme, rosemary and oregano. This gains significantly with time in the glass (so decant an hour ahead if drinking now for best results). The palate is full and firm, absent of any wood interference (aged in large old wood), with the herbal lift and texture of whole bunch fermentation (un-destemed bunches thrown straight into the vat). This has genuine succulence and depth, density and drinkability. Another 2-4 years will see considerably more complexity develop and tannins soften, through it's already delicious now. 13,5% Alc./Volc. - SRP $30 (John Szabo MS = 91 points).